Baldwin Ho discovers that history, nature and culinary delights combine to make this one of Florida’s hidden gems.
For those who think Florida is a homogeneous state of eternal sunshine and endless palm trees, they clearly haven’t visited Amelia Island. This charming island is unique in Florida because you’ll experience all four distinct seasons: cool winters, mild springs, warm summers, and crisp autumns, rather than just a year-round temperate climate.
You will also notice that dramatic oak trees with sprawling limbs are more common than palm trees on the island. It is also known as ‘The Isle of Eight Flags’ because it is the only location in the United States where eight different national flags have claimed ownership of this barrier island.
With a population in the tens of thousands, you wouldn’t think Amelia Island is a gastronomic hot spot. However, a visit to David’s Restaurant and Lounge in Fernandina Beach will make you reconsider straight away. Boasting an AAA Four Diamond rating, it’s a restaurant with a cosy, upscale atmosphere. This is one Floridian restaurant where people dress up for a romantic night out.
Colombian-born owner and executive chef, David Echeverri, has worked his way up from the kitchen to become an owner. His speciality is offering a fine-dining experience, where he infuses his dishes with a Colombian twist. Dishes you might experience include arepa with caviar, hamachi ceviche with plantain, and octopus with chimichurri and plantain. Sourcing the very best ingredients is key to his success. Although not stated on his menus, you might be surprised by sweet and juicy Hokkaido scallops. They are served in an encocado sauce, which is a rich stew made with coconut milk, herbs, and spices.
If you time your visit right in April, be sure not to miss the Fish to Fork festival, held annually at the Omni Amelia Island Resort and Spa. It’s an immersive experience, where you can be a food critic and vote for your favourite chef/dish. They’ve gathered renowned local and national chefs to compete for supremacy in a ‘dock-to-dish’ experience. The chefs have to go out fishing and then create a signature dish based on their catch of the day. The guests vote on who they think has created the best dish on the night. There is also a live cooking team challenge, on which the guests vote.
This year was their 10th anniversary celebration. The winning dish came from chef Kathleen Blake, who is the executive chef at Slate Restaurant at Blair Hill Inn in Maine. It was very aptly named the ‘Isle of Eight’ and was a refreshing red fish ceviche that had unusual additions like grapes and boba. There were eight chefs in total, and each stand served up a signature cocktail as well. The entrance tickets also include a buffet feast prepared by the wonderful kitchen team from the resort. You’ll find unlimited oysters, tacos, meat dishes, ice cream selections, and even an open bar.
If you want to experience other culinary gems on the island, make sure you pay a visit to Mezcal Spirit of Oaxaca. The décor will catch your attention straight away, with eye-catching wall murals. They also have a foliage-filled patio with decorative lighting that makes al fresco dining particularly attractive. Unusual dishes you might encounter include Mezcal amber beer cooked mussels, and you must try their shrimp dishes, because Fernandina Beach is the birthplace of the modern shrimping industry. You will find fantastic wild-caught colossal-sized shrimps on their menu.
Another option to consider is the upscale The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island. They have the fine dining Salt restaurant, which has held an AAA Five Diamond Award for over a decade. However, even at their more casual Coast restaurant, you’ll find many satisfying delights such as Mayport shrimp bucatini.
Shrimp has been mentioned abundantly previously, and you will understand its importance when you go on an Amelia River Cruises along Cumberland Island. They will explain that, at the height of the industry, there were around 300 to 400 shrimp boats operating out of Fernandina Beach. It has subsequently declined to a handful, which they will point out as you sail past. The decline have been mainly blamed on cheaper imported farmed shrimps.
As you sail towards Cumberland Island, you enter Georgian waters. The island is managed by the National Park Service. It was mainly owned by the Carnegie family. Guides will point out the elegant Greyfield Inn, a colonial-style hotel built by Lucy Carnegie. The island is also known for having the only unmanaged herd of feral horses on the Atlantic coast.
A visit to Fort Clinch State Park will help you further appreciate the rich history and stunning scenery of the region. You will discover a remarkably well-preserved 19th-century pentagonal fort. It helped that the fort never saw any wars. Nowadays, you will find cannons, barracks, prison cells, and kitchens, and especially stories linking back to the Civil War era. Around the fort, you’ll find a scenic park with six miles of coastline, which is particularly popular for fossilised shark tooth hunters.
If you are looking for hotel resorts, in the luxury end of the spectrum, you have The Ritz-Carlton. Here, you’ll find the very best of amenities, including a high-end spa, indoor and outdoor pools, in addition to direct beach access. They have the very best of boutique shops, including ones such as Kilometre Paris, which sells designer bags made specifically for the hotel. A premium option to consider is the Omni Amelia Island Resort and Spa. It’s ideal, especially if you want to attend the Fish to Fork festival.
However, for a slice of southern charm, you should book a guesthouse such as The Amelia Island Williams House. The award-winning, historic bed and breakfast is owned by the personable and charming Veronica, who took over the guesthouse in December 2020. She’s an architect by training, so it was no surprise she took a liking to Williams House with its charming early Victorian architecture.
All the rooms have their own individual charms and quirky touches, but she only utilises period-appropriate décor. The two-course breakfast is one of the highlights of the stay and is lovingly prepared by Veronica. The Inn is right next door to David’s Restaurant and Lounge, so maybe they’ve shared some cooking tips together. She’s created an extremely inclusive environment, so guests tend to converse during breakfast and throughout the day.
For more details of the attractions of Amelia Island go to ameliaisland.com
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