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Somewhere, between the first sip of sparkling cava and the last crumb of Spanish cheese, we finally get it – travelling through Spain by train instead of a rental car is the way to go.
Traditionally, self-drive has been our preferred means of travel, but a few rental-car dramas – a parking fine here, a fender bender there – had taken the shine off. Particularly, that night in Milan, when, after a couple of laps of the city looking for our accommodation, my husband suggested that I jump out at the next red light and hop into the taxi in front, and that he would follow.
Spain’s sleek, Ferrari-red iryo trains.Credit: iStock
The trouble was, my gallant saviour thought I was fleeing an abusive lover and took off like a stunt driver in The Italian Job. And then there was that time in Seville when we parked our rental in an underground car park and couldn’t find it for three days (even mentioning it now brings on hives).
Reclined in leather seats aboard Spain’s privately owned high-speed iryo train, we’ll cover the 300 kilometres from Barcelona to Zaragoza in one hour and 23 minutes. Not only will we avoid traffic jams and airport crowds, but we’ll significantly reduce our carbon emissions. Best of all, we’ll both be able to enjoy the scenery and each other’s company.
After two nights in Zaragoza, we’ll keep the rail theme on track and switch to a pre-purchased Eurail Spain Pass, tracking south-east to Valencia before turning north and following the coast back to Barcelona, and beyond.
When Spain looked at Japan’s bullet trains and Britain’s high-speed Javelin trains it said, “I see you and raise you a quiver of Red Arrows”. Iryo launched in late 2022 with a fleet of Hitachi-Bombardier ETR 1000s, capable of reaching speeds up to 360 kilometres an hour. Not just fast, quiet and reliable, they are also considered among the most sustainable in Europe. As a low-cost alternative on Spain’s popular train routes, iryo was a game-changer.
The classic architecture of Zaragova.Credit: iStock
In 2024 iryo formed an alliance with Rail Europe, a partnership designed to give travellers more route options and better prices when booking point-to-point. Integrating iryo’s extensive high-speed network into Rail Europe’s streamlined booking service creates the perfect synergy in rail travel.
We board our Ferrari-red iryo at Barcelona’s Sants Station, settling into the High Comfort XL seats of our Singular Only YOU category, which is one below the top-fare Infinito Bistro, and two above the entry-level categories. Having arrived in Barcelona after a seven-night Mediterranean cruise with Sun Princess, it’s the ideal opportunity to keep the holiday vibe going.
We’ve pre-ordered tapas (extra cost) from the “market” menu and barely finished it before arriving in Zaragoza. While we have chosen to get off in the capital of Aragon, most stay on for the final stretch to Madrid, the full 622-kilometre journey taking just two hours and 30 minutes.
Zaragoza, once named Caesaraugusta, is all Roman ruins and Renaissance-style palaces, domed cathedrals, and artworks by local-lad Francisco de Goya. Cobbled alleyways lead from the Ebro River to public plazas and sweet shops grace every corner. Off the tourist trail it has everything you could ask from a Spanish city – without the crowds, and without the eye-watering prices. For €7 ($11.60) we gain entry to all four archaeological sites of the Caesaraugusta museums route – theatre, public baths, river port and forum – a well-marked trail looping above and below the city and back in time 2000 years.
The 6000-spectator theatre is a highlight, not only do we have it to ourselves, but we finish our visit with a glass of €2 ($3.30) wine overlooking the ruins. As dusk turns to dark we head to the lively El Tubo district, with its tangle of traditional tapas bars tucked inside the Old Town.
Transport dramas Nil.
Hotel suggestion Hotel Sauce is well-priced, conveniently located in the Old Town and boasts its own pastry shop. Rooms from €80 ($140), see hotelsauce.com
It takes just under five hours to travel from Zaragoza to Valencia aboard the state-owned Renfe train. This is the first leg of our Eurail Spain Pass, which we navigate with ease via the Rail Planner app on our phones (note: reservations for some routes need to be done at a station in Spain).
Having had our dose of cobblestones and cathedrals, we’ve chosen to stay beachside at Playa de las Arenas, rather than the city centre. The bus system between the two districts is cheap and convenient, and after an initial taxi to our hotel, we master it like school kids.
Valencia’s stunning Reina Sofia Art Palace.Credit: iStock
This is my first trip to Valencia, and while I expected sunshine (300 days a year), beaches (more than 20 kilometres’ worth) and paella (the city is said to be the dish’s birthplace) I didn’t expect the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences. Not just a museum, but an astonishing complex of seven main elements including the Oceanographico aquarium, the IMAX-like Hemisferic, the Science Museum and the Palau de Les Arts. Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Felix Candela, the “city” stretches for almost two kilometres along the former Turia riverbed.
This revitalised riverbed is the second surprise. After the deadly floods of 1957, the Turia River was diverted, a bold move which allowed for the creation of a nine-kilometre green ribbon of urban parklands curling through the city
Transport dramas While many Renfe trains have a buffet car, our leg from Zaragoza to Valencia didn’t have one. Someone (cough) didn’t read the fine print.
Hotel suggestion Pamphylia Hotel is a three-star beachfront hotel with direct access to the promenade and its many bars and restaurants. Rooms from €130 ($225), see pamphylia.es
Part of the romance of train travel lies in the grand old stations themselves. Valencia’s Estacio del Nord is a stunning example of Art Nouveau/Modernist architecture, with colourful ceramics, stained-glass windows and agricultural motifs reflecting the region’s orange trade. From here it’s two hours and 30 minutes by Renfe intercity train to L’Aldea-Amposta, gateway to the Ebro Delta. Tootling north, we trace one of the prettiest coastal routes in Spain, where orange groves alternate with glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea. A short taxi ride brings us to Apartment Eco Deltaic, our eco-friendly accommodation in the La Cava neighbourhood in the heart of the delta.
Flamingos at sunset on the Ebro Delta.Credit: iStock
As one of the most significant wetlands in the western Mediterranean, the Ebro Delta is famous for two things – nature and gastronomy. We start with an organised sunset tour of the Terres de l’Ebre UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, where more than 350 species of birds have been identified. From an observatory on Tancada Lagoon we spot mallards, terns, black-winged stilts and black-headed gulls. And flamingos. So many flamingos the water blushes pink.
Surrounded by such natural beauty we slip easily into the “slow” way of life; dining on organic produce at Deltaic’s restaurant; riding bikes among the rice fields; shopping for local delicacies at village markets. Did we miss having a car? Not even for one minute.
Transport dramas One small one, when we stood on the wrong side of the platform and almost missed our train.
Hotel suggestion Apartment Eco Deltaic offers a range of self-contained accommodation sleeping four to six. Photography, bird watching and bike tours can be arranged. Apartments for a two-night stay from €180 ($310), see deltaic.eco
Girona
Situated between the Pyrenees mountain range and the Costa Brava this “City of the four rivers” is known for its well-preserved Jewish Quarter. A must-visit for Game of Thrones fans.
Zamora
Straddling the Duero River, Zamora is the Spanish capital of Romanesque architecture and art.
Jaen
Lesser-known than other Andalucian cities, Jaen has maintained its strong sense of tradition and religious heritage. Explore further afield for mountains and nature reserves.
Leon
An important staging post along the Camino de Santiago, this former Roman town combines stunning architecture with a distinctive Leonese tapas scene.
Tarragona
Gorgeous beaches, Roman ruins and delicious Catalan cuisine; the port city of Tarragona makes an ideal side trip from Barcelona.
RAIL
A three-day flexible Eurail Spain Pass starts from $286. See raileurope.com
CRUISE
Fares for a Cabana mini-suite on a seven-night Mediterranean voyage departing Barcelona on April 26, 2025, visiting France and Italy, and finishing in Rome from $3739 a guest on a Princess Premier package which includes Wi-Fi (up to four devices a guest), premier beverage package, two speciality dining meals and unlimited fitness classes. See princess.com/sun-princess
FLY
Qatar Airways operates multiple daily flights out of Australia, connecting through Doha to Barcelona and other European cities. See qatarairways.com
The writer was a guest of Rail Europe, Princess Cruises and Catalan Tourist Board (catalunya.com/en).
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