Journee-Mondiale > Travel
The turtle glides effortlessly past me, its ancient pattern catching the morning sunlight filtering through crystal Caribbean waters. I’m floating above a vibrant coral reef in Brewers Bay, where 552 residents have somehow managed to keep one of the British Virgin Islands’ most extraordinary marine sanctuaries largely to themselves. This horseshoe-shaped cove on Tortola’s north shore sits just 15 minutes from bustling Cane Garden Bay, yet exists in a different universe entirely.
Most cruise ship passengers never make it here. The steep, switchback access road filters out the casual tourist, leaving this pristine snorkeling paradise remarkably uncrowded even during high season. My underwater companions today: three sea turtles, countless tropical fish, and precisely zero selfie sticks.
Nicole’s Beach Bar sits modestly at the edge of the sand, its weathered wood structure barely visible from the road. Behind it lies the real treasure – a barrier reef teeming with parrotfish, tarpon, and occasionally barracuda, forming an underwater universe most visitors to the British Virgin Islands never discover.
Unlike Spring Bay’s granite-enclosed swimming corral, Brewers Bay offers open-water snorkeling with exceptional visibility. The seagrass beds closer to shore serve as natural feeding grounds for sea turtles, which graze contentedly, unperturbed by the few snorkelers who discover this spot.
“The 2017 hurricanes destroyed several establishments here that never returned,” whispers a local renting me snorkel gear. “It’s kept things quiet, which is exactly how we like it.”
While many British Virgin Islands beaches have rebounded with commercial development since Hurricane Irma, Brewers Bay exists in a curious time capsule. Its limited reconstruction has preserved what makes it special – authenticity without pretension.
The predominantly Afro-Caribbean community here preserves cultural traditions much like Penang’s efforts to maintain heritage amid tourism. They’ve resisted overdevelopment, keeping this marine sanctuary pristine while neighboring Cane Garden Bay fills with cruise ship visitors and waterfront bars.
“We come here when we want to remember what the islands felt like before tourism took over. The turtles have been feeding in this bay for centuries – they don’t care about Instagram.”
The contrast is striking. While Cane Garden Bay offers 12+ beachfront bars and water sports rentals, Brewers Bay provides just Nicole’s Beach Bar, where you can rent snorkel gear for $5 and chairs for the same price – though prices aren’t fixed and friendly negotiation is expected.
Caribbean travelers seeking the same peaceful shoreline experience as America’s Long Beach will find Brewers Bay offers that increasingly rare commodity in the Caribbean – solitude with natural beauty.
Similar to how Bondurant turns extreme temperatures into a visitor advantage, Brewers Bay’s hurricane season offers unexpected benefits. Visiting during June means encountering lush, vibrant vegetation and experiencing significantly fewer crowds.
The best snorkeling spot isn’t obvious to first-timers. Head to the western edge near the barrier reef where water visibility improves dramatically. Arrive before 10am to avoid occasional cruise ship day-trippers and experience the bay at its most serene.
For authentic local cuisine, the roadside food trucks serve traditional johnny cakes and pates – fried dough pockets filled with spiced fish or meat. These $3-5 snacks provide perfect post-snorkeling sustenance.
Access Brewers Bay via Hunthums Ghut to Ridge Road, following signs for the steep descent. The unpaved sections deter many visitors, but any standard rental car manages fine. Free parking is available along the beach road.
While underwater visibility is generally excellent, it’s best on the right side offshore where the barrier reef creates calmer conditions. Even during brief rain showers, the bay remains swimmable and actually becomes more peaceful as fair-weather tourists retreat.
The hillside surrounding the bay offers hidden hiking trails frequented by locals. Ask at Nicole’s Beach Bar for directions to the unmarked path leading to spectacular views above the cove.
As I dry off on the beach, watching the last turtle disappear into deeper water, I’m struck by how places like this survive in our hyperconnected world. My wife Sarah would capture this moment perfectly with her camera – the interplay of lush green hills and turquoise waters. In Brewers Bay, “limin’” (the local term for relaxing) isn’t a tourist activity but a way of life practiced for generations. Visit now, before this secret marine sanctuary inevitably joins the ranks of the discovered.
