Calum McSwiggan is celebrating 20 prides on seven continents over 12 months. In his latest despatch from Florida – under fire from anti-LGBT+ legislation – he finds a community bonded together.
Calls to boycott the state of Florida flood my social media feed. ‘Boycott Florida, no trips, no purchases,’ one woman writes, her message shared thousands of times. People from around the world are resisting the Sunshine State’s anti-LGBT+ legislation.
It led to further reflection on my decision to include Miami in my Year of Pride. None of the destinations I am visiting have been included without consideration.
The boycott has been gaining traction for several years, driven by a slate of laws that have scaled back LBGT+ freedoms. In 2022, Florida Governor Ron de Santis signed the ‘Don’t Say Gay’ bill, which prevents LGBT+ topics from being discussed in classrooms. One year later, Republicans passed the Bathroom Ban, which effectively makes it a crime for trans people to use single-sex spaces.
Sweeping LGBT+ book bans, attacks on drag performers, and a petition to make it illegal for Pride flags to be flown from government buildings have also made headlines. It’s making queer travellers think twice about visiting.
I understand this, but spending time in Miami has helped me to see a different perspective.
Florida may have long voted red, but Miami Beach has remained defiantly blue, consistently voting Democrat across local, state, and national elections.
These aren’t just statistics; you can feel this liberal identity everywhere you go.
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From the famous rainbow beach hut to the iconic pastel crossing, the city is decked out in Pride colours year-round. Twist, Miami’s oldest gay bar, flies two enormous rainbow flags in the middle of the busiest boulevard, while Palace is renowned for its drag shows that run seven days a week.
Every night, the crowds are so large they spill out onto Ocean Drive; it’s impossible to visit this tourist landmark without seeing LGBT+ people not only represented, but loudly celebrated, too.
During my visit, I attend a street naming ceremony for Matti Bower, the beloved activist who founded Miami Beach Pride. It’s unprecedented to name a street after a person who’s still living, but for her, they make an unchallenged exception.
Bower served as the city’s first female and first Hispanic mayor, as well as being a Cuban migrant and a proud Democrat. Naming a street after her is a win for the LGBT+ community, but it’s also a win for other minorities living in the state of Florida.
Alongside famously queer cities like Key West and Fort Lauderdale,Miami Beach has long been a haven for the LGBT+ community. Yet in catering so heavily to queer travellers, the city is reliant on revenue from LGBT+ tourists to keep queer establishments afloat. Go figure.
A boycott threatens the livelihood of queer business owners, many of whom are already struggling. At the iconic ‘hetero-friendly’ Axel Hotel, I witness this firsthand.
Calum McSwiggan, author of Eat Gay Love, is a man on a mission. He plans to spend 2025 exploring how the LGBT+ community is celebrated everywhere on Earth: 12 months, 7 continents, 20 Prides.
In an exclusive Metro series, Calum will journey from the subzero climes of Antarctica to the jewel-toned streets of Mumbai, telling the story of Pride around the world.
Follow his journey on Metro, in print and on our socials to learn how Pride is celebrated around the world. Next up? Thailand.
Thunder and lightning flash overhead as the DJ bops up and down by the side of the pool. It’s long served as a thriving hub for the LGBT+ community, but today, they are being forced to close their doors before Pride has even begun.
The dismal weather doesn’t stop people from showing up to say goodbye, though. They huddle together under the canopy as they celebrate the legacy of this important community space.
It’s not the only LGBT+ space to close down. Two gay swimwear stores have closed up shop since my last visit two years ago. A recent study from Booking.com shows that 43% of LGBT+ travellers have cancelled a trip after seeing that a destination is unsupportive of LGBTQ+ people.
Now, businesses are struggling, but this goes much deeper than economics.
‘Even in times when the state’s political narrative is targeting the LGBT+ community, Miami Beach has a long history of standing against this,’LGBT+ restaurant owner Egidio Guerreri tells Metro.
This support goes back to the battle against Anita Bryant’s homophobic ‘Save Our Children’ movement in the 70s.
‘We will always be united, we will always make our voices heard, but we need support from the wider world too,’ Egidio says.
‘That’s why it’s so important that international LGBT+ travellers continue to visit – they’re not just supporting our economy, they’re supporting us by showing up and being visible, and helping to show that we’re very much here to stay.’
Florida is home to both the world’s largest cruise port and some of its biggest theme parks – while an LGBT+ boycott certainly sends a message, it makes only a small dent in the state’s broader economy. For small LGBT+ businesses, it could be fatal.
Across Miami, there is a push for trans inclusivity, too. During a pageant competition to crown Mr & Mrs Miami Beach Pride, contestants are invited to dress in one of the colours of the six-stripe Pride flag. Instead, however, Oscar Gonsalez takes the stage in white.
Wearing an intricate headpiece and winged gown, he deliberately breaks the rules to wear one of the colours of the trans Pride flag instead. He explains, in Spanish, that his outfit is a tribute to his transgender sister. He’s crowned the winner shortly afterward. Rules be damned, Miami Beach consistently stands firm in its love and acceptance of every letter of the community.
Perhaps most importantly, drag performer Sacha Colby is invited to be Grand Marshal in the parade. With both the drag and trans communities under the attack of state legislation, it feels especially poignant that they also place a transgender drag queen to be the festival’s headline act.
‘Give it up for the dolls,’ she calls to the cheering crowd, using a term of endearment for transgender women.
She’s still dripping wet from dousing herself in water during her performance. ‘We’re still struggling, y’all. We still don’t have healthcare. We still don’t have human rights. We need to figure out how we can make everyone feel human. It’s just being human.’
These words feel healing. In fact, the whole festival feels like a therapeutic moment for Florida’s LGBT+ community. People carry bright colourful signs that read ‘Just breathe’ and ‘We will get through this.’ One woman joyously waves a banner that reads ‘Proud mother of a transgender son.’
Moments of togetherness are what the city does so well. It’s ironic that efforts to tear the community apart has only brought us closer together.
It’s not all political. Placing the Pride festival on the sands of Miami Beach makes for a unique atmosphere. People walk around in bikinis and swimwear, and there’s a genuine sense of happiness and freedom that goes hand in hand with Miami’s relaxed and easy way of life.
To the outside world, it may seem like Florida is not a welcoming place to visit these days. But cities like Miami Beach are proof to the contrary.
I can’t tell you whether or not to boycott – that’s a decision people will have to make for themselves. But if you are going to visit, my recommendation is that you spend your money generously within the state’s queer establishments.
That goes for our allies too – stop by an LGBT+ owned restaurant, go to see a drag show and tip those performers generously. Florida may be red, but the people of Miami are blue through and through.
Getting there
Virgin Atlantic offers return fares from London Heathrow from £412. Not only are they an inclusive airline, they’ve collaborated with organisations like Open For Business to highlight the economic impact of LGBT+ discrimination.
Where to stay:
Hotel Gaythering is now Miami’s only LGBT+ hotel. For other queer-friendly recommendations, the following have all completed Booking.com’s Travel Proud training:
– Moxy Miami South Beach (££)
– The Goodtime Hotel (£)
– Nobu (£££)
Things to do (beyond Pride)
Where to eat and drink
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