Editorial Manager
Less than 100 years ago, Matera was one of the poorest areas in Italy. In 2019, the city was chosen as a European capital of culture, an honour that followed on from the rocky outcrop gaining UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993. I wanted to see this remarkable regeneration for myself, and was inspired by seeing the city on screen in a number of movies.
Sassi di Matera is now one of the most popular destinations in southern Italy
Although its remote location makes access difficult, things are getting a lot easier. My plan was to travel via Bari, the well connected coastal city with excellent flight options. Brindisi is another airport which is about an hour away from Matera and has a decent amount of flights especially in peak summer season. Another route in is via train, although you won’t be able to go directly to Matera by rail. Catch a train from Rome to Bari and you’ll spend about 5 hours traversing across central Italy. If you’re a fan of travelling this way the service is relatively cheap, very comfortable and offers regular departures. It’s worth remembering that Italy has and excellent train service, and locals use it for their summer vacations when journeying to the coastal areas in the warmer months.
I opted to hire a car in Bari and explore the south on a road trip. This was initially a daunting prospect as my previous Italian road trip from Rome to Turin proved to be very stressful. The toll roads, crowded cities and general traffic of the north was not the Italian experience I was hoping for, but the more relaxed approach here made driving a joy. If you want to avoid driving entirely, you can get to Matera by bus. This service will drop you off just outside the city but it is a short walk to get to the outskirts of the main part of Matera. We found ample parking options here too, and you can also leave your car overnight if you plan on staying in the city.
The glistening white stones of Matera standout in the sunlight and shade of a summer’s day in Italy
The Sassi lies at the centre of Matera – home to a series of caves and underground passages that have been used as dwellings since the Palaeolithic era. Split into two districts (Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano), the ancient town was granted UNESCO World Heritage status along with the Park of the Rupestrian Churches. I was staying in one of the cave hotels that have become hugely popular in recent years. Whilst speaking to my host, I found out that her family had always lived here and generations had grown up in the cave rooms similar to the one I was staying in.
A typical room in a cave hotel in Matera.
Modern hotels are being built at a rapid pace on the ridges that overlook the ancient part of the city, but physical constraints mean all properties in the centre must retain most of their original features. Comfort isn’t the main priority so expect small rooms, limited air conditioning and a somewhat ‘damp’ atmosphere, something inherent with these types of dwellings. The payoff is the views you get and the authentic experience which simply can’t be matched.
The Sassi houses were dug into the rocks of Matera, which possess a unique composition only found in the regions of Basilicata and Apulia. Although an exact date cannot be confirmed, experts believe people have been living continuously in these stone houses for over 9,000 years, making Matera among the oldest continually inhabited towns in the world. Due to its geographical location and particular style of architecture, Matera has been likened to older cites across the Middle East. It’s more visually reminiscent of ancient Jerusalem than the Jerusalem of today, and filmmakers have been keen to take advantage of this. Mary Magdalene (2018) was shot on location here, with James Bond rolling into town, too.
See privacy policy.
These cobbled streets look beautiful but probably not the best for driving on if you’re name is Bond. James Bond.
The production of No Time to Die (2020) saw 007’s famous Aston Martin DB7 race around the cobbled streets of Matera, just as the city was celebrating its European capital of culture status. The subsequent publicity from the movie has boosted tourism, but it’s not as if there is a shortage of visitors coming to stay in the city. While staying here, I spoke to some of the locals who told me about the filming of the James Bond movie. Apparently stunt drivers who were performing the high-speed chases found the cobbles too slick to drive on and the production team had to pour gallons of coca-cola on the streets to help give the tyres enough friction to drive. When I drove through the town to get to the car park I didn’t have that problem… although I think my small 2 door Fiat was trundling along at a more sensible speed.
One of the original cave dwellings in Matera
A recent report by the University of Siena suggested that over 25 percent of the viable housing in Matera was available on Airbnb. The remarkable turnaround was kick-started by former prime minister Alcide De Gasperi, who criticised the conditions residents were forced to live in, describing it as “a national disgrace” in 1950. After several false dawns, including a misguided plan to evacuate the city and rehouse the residents in another location, a positive solution was found when artisans began moving in and converting the dwellings into habitable spaces.
While other Italian hotspots, such as Florence, Rome and Venice, have seen overtourism choke the streets around the cities, the plan for Matera is to maintain a sustainable number of visitors going forward. The city has also been selected as one of five places to trial 5G broadband and technology, making it one of the most progressive destinations in the country.
If you want to see a slice of authentic Italy and avoid the crowds in summer, Matera is one of the best options out there.
Historical Landmark
Step into the ancient world of Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for the Sassi di Matera – prehistoric cave dwellings carved into limestone cliffs. Explore districts like Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, where millennia-old homes, rock churches like the fresco-adorned Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, and boutique cave hotels now coexist. Visit the Matera Cathedral for panoramic views of the city, or delve into history at the MUSMA Museum of contemporary sculpture, housed in a 17th-century cave palace. Wander the Murgia Materana Park across the ravine to hike trails dotted with Neolithic caves and gaze back at the Sassi’s golden glow at sunset. Don’t miss tasting local Lucanian specialties like orecchiette pasta or peperoni cruschi (crispy peppers) in a cave restaurant. By night, the Sassi transforms into a magical wonderland, illuminated by twinkling lights – a scene so cinematic it’s earned Matera roles in No Time to Die.
Cassam Looch has been working within travel for more than a decade. An expert on film locations and set jetting destinations, Cassam is also a keen advocate of the many unique things to do in his home city of London. With more than 50 countries visited (so far), Cassam also has a great take on the rest of the world.
A Guide to the 5 Most Dazzling Views in Catania, Italy
The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn
The Best European Cities to Visit in August
Best Places to Visit in July this Year
Matera Italy Travel Guide: Sassi Cave Dwellings & UNESCO Site
The Best European Cities to Visit in December
The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer
The Best European Cities to Visit in June
The Best European Cities to Visit in October
The Best European Cities to Visit in November
The Best European Cities to Visit in September
The Top 10 Things To Do And See In Corso Magenta
Spring Sale
Save up to $800 on our trips! Book now and secure your adventure!
CUSTOMER SERVICE
US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000
tripssupport@theculturetrip.com
© Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd. All Rights Reserved.
