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The perfume capital of the world might still be Grasse, a small town on the French Riviera that has shaped the fragrance industry since the late 18th century. But in the United States, a renaissance of perfumery is happening right here in Los Angeles.
In the 1980s, L.A. was the birthplace of bold, opulent fragrances, from Giorgio Beverly Hills to Bijan by Bijan, the olfactory equivalent of a power suit. But in the past two decades, the city’s fragrance scene has blossomed even further, thanks to a wave of independent makers, schools that teach the art of scent and niche perfume boutiques (“niche perfume” simply means it’s not made by a designer brand like Gucci or Yves Saint Laurent).
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In the 1990s, perfumer Sarah Horowitz-Thran, one of the pioneers of independent American perfumery, moved to the city and subsequently began teaching perfume classes at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising. Then in 2012 the perfume education nonprofit Institute for Art and Olfaction opened its doors and the city’s fragrance scene blossomed. (Full disclosure, I serve as a volunteer member of the IAO board of directors.) The niche perfume market made over $2 billion in sales in 2023 and is expected to quadruple that by 2032.
Now in L.A., there’s a biennial celebration called Scent Week, organized by the IAO, which happens this year from May 24 through June 1. It will feature perfume and smell-related activations all over the city.
For me, scent is more than a fascination — it’s a part of my life. In addition to being a journalist, I’m a perfumer and olfactory artist.
For Scent Week or any time of year, here’s a guide to help you smell your way through experimental perfume studios, luxury scent retailers, candle ateliers and even an incense shop where you can take a hands-on workshop. Maybe you’ll find the scent you’ve been dreaming of — or create it yourself.
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