Plan the ultimate tour of California, from San Francisco and Los Angeles to Yosemite and wine country, on our expert’s two-week itinerary
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California is a land of clichés: glitzy movie stars, rolling vineyards, sun-drenched surf, towering redwoods – you get the picture. But these iconic images barely scratch the surface of the Golden State’s allure. Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, I know there’s a more authentic California: tucked-away coves, barking sea lions, historic Spanish missions, charming small towns, hidden desert trails, and countless other treasures revealing the state’s true character.
Then there’s California’s sheer scale. Its economy now ranks as the world’s fourth largest, and its vastness fuels one of its most enduring rivalries: North vs. South. NorCal flaunts its Beatnik soul, Napa wines and the Golden Gate Bridge, while SoCal dazzles with celebrity beaches, chic boutiques and Hollywood glamour. How do you settle the score? Hit the road and experience it all.
I’ve mapped out a two-week, 1,500-mile driving adventure that captures California’s finest spots, replete with rugged national parks, jaw-dropping coastal views, wineries, historic towns, and more. Beginning in San Francisco, you’ll drive the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) south, roll into Los Angeles, explore two national parks, dip into Gold Country, and finish in Napa Valley. While the loop could be done linearly, my route avoids pricey one-way rental car fees.
Finally, you don’t need a car during your first few days in San Francisco; pick up a rental at SFO airport on day three.
Let’s go…
Fly direct from London Heathrow to San Francisco on a daytime flight, touching down about 11 hours later in the early afternoon. After settling into the Beacon Grand on Union Square, hop aboard the Powell-Hyde cable car outside the hotel. You’ll clang and rumble up and over Nob Hill, where the mansions of 19th-century railroad tycoons now stand as opulent hotels. Get your camera ready for the famous view down California Street, then again farther along, at the top of Lombard Street, often referred to as the “crookedest street in the world”.
At Fisherman’s Wharf, explore the historic fishing fleet, dating back to the 1800s, and indulge in a steaming bowl of cioppino at Scoma’s, a local favourite for its rich, Dungeness crab-packed seafood stew. Then head to the Buena Vista, just a few blocks away near Ghirardelli Square, to sip a signature Irish coffee at this city institution.
Start your day with a cappuccino at a North Beach café; Caffè Greco or Caffe Trieste are local picks. Then, dive into the culinary delights of North Beach and Chinatown with a Secret Food Tour. Your guide will take you to tucked-away restaurants, bakeries, and even a fortune-cookie factory, sampling Italian-style pizza, stuffed dumplings, and street tacos along the way.
Afterwards, catch a taxi to Golden Gate Park, a sprawling urban oasis that stretches from the Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood to the Pacific Ocean. Spend the afternoon exploring its treasures: the de Young Museum’s fine-arts collection; the Conservatory of Flowers’ vibrant blooms; and the California Academy of Sciences’ unique fusion of zoo, museum and planetarium. Cap it off with a relaxing cup of tea at the Japanese Tea Garden, a tranquil green oasis of Zen, then hop aboard the free shuttle to explore other corners of the park, including windmills, a bison paddock and pretty Stow Lake.
For dinner, enjoy a leisurely seafood feast at Waterbar, overlooking the illuminated Bay Bridge. Alternatively, set sail with City Experiences on a dinner cruise, gliding under the Golden Gate Bridge as the sun dips below the horizon.
Leave San Francisco on the Great Ocean Highway (SR 1), following the sinuous road south through revitalised fishing towns – including Pacifica and Half Moon Bay – and onward to Santa Cruz, the birthplace of surfing in the US, and still a beach-culture Mecca. Further south, past Monterey, lies Pacific Grove, your gateway to the famous 17-Mile Drive. Here, the drama of the Pacific surf collides with the manicured greens of the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Course. The Bench is a popular (if not bougie) lunch stop, with stellar views (insider tip: you’ll be reimbursed for your gate fee with your meal).
Today, the 125-mile drive ends in Carmel, a fairytale seaside village populated with flower-draped cottages, cosy bistros, and one-of-a-kind boutiques. Check into Mission Ranch Hotel, owned by actor and former Carmel mayor Clint Eastwood, then take a brisk stroll to the adobe-walled Carmel Mission, founded by Spanish padre Junipero Serra in 1770; the museum has ancient artefacts, including California’s oldest Bible. Round out the day by grabbing a bottle of wine at Nielsen Brothers’ Market & Deli and heading to Carmel Beach to toast the fiery hues of a Pacific sunset. Dinner at Chez Noir provides an intimate, at-home feel that melds the essence of a Parisian café with coastal California elegance.
Slip on your driving gloves for today’s unforgettable journey along Big Sur’s serpentine coastline, where the precipitous cliffs of the Santa Lucia Mountains plunge into the roaring blue Pacific. Stop for lunch at Nepenthe, perched high above the waves – if you’re lucky, you might spot condors circling overhead as you dine on fresh coastal cuisine.
A must-stop some 90 minutes away is William Randolph Hearst’s monstrous hilltop castle in San Simeon, the one-time hangout of Hollywood’s elite. The Grand Rooms tour is the perfect introduction to the estate’s priceless antiques, artworks and rooms transplanted from European chateaus. Then roll into the nearby seaside village of Cambria and check in to the cosy Blue Dolphin Inn for spectacular ocean (and sunset) views.
The open road
On your final day on the PCH, savour a two-hour parade of stunning coastal views before pulling into Santa Barbara, a chic, palm-lined gem celebrated for its Spanish Colonial architecture. For lunch, grab something fresh and artisanal at the Santa Barbara Public Market – Fala Bar and Wabi Sabi Sushi Bar are great options. Then continue an hour and a half south to Los Angeles, being mindful of its legendary rush hour (typically 3-7pm).
Your home base for the next few nights is the historic Hotel Figueroa in Downtown LA, a stylish nod to the city’s vibrant history. Once settled, set your sights on Hollywood Boulevard, just a short ride away (Uber is your best bet). Stroll the Walk of Fame, where 2,800 stars embedded in the pavement honour Hollywood’s legends. They were inspired by the handprints in front of the legendary Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, still a working movie palace. Mel’s Drive-In is a must for classic Americana – grilled sandwiches, milkshakes and apple pie. Wrap up the night at the legendary Whisky A Go Go on Sunset Boulevard, where the live music scene is as electric as ever.
Kick off the day with sweeping views of the famous Hollywood sign from Griffith Observatory and Park, a trail-laced oasis high in the hills. Next, drive about 20 miles (30 minutes if you’re lucky) to the lively Venice Beach Boardwalk – dubbed Muscle Beach. It’s a colourful spectacle of street performers, quirky shops and endless people-watching.
Nearby, Abbott Kinney Boulevard is where LA’s pretty people browse stylish boutiques and art galleries; you’ll find a delicious produce-forward lunch at Gjelina. Spend the afternoon at the world-renowned Getty Center, a 15-minute drive (traffic permitting), where striking design meets lush gardens and masterpieces, including Van Gogh and Monet. End the day with dinner closer to your hotel – San Laurel by Chef José Andrés features a tasting menu served on a terrace overlooking the Walt Disney Concert Hall.
Start your day at the lively Original Farmers’ Market, a Los Angeles landmark since 1934. Afterwards, stroll over to The Grove, an ultramodern shopping and entertainment hub, for some LA-style retail therapy. You’ll find plenty of breakfast options in both places.
Next, immerse yourself in world-class art at the nearby Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), where the Urban Light installation of restored street lamps is a huge draw. Nearby, La Brea Tar Pits is a long-standing LA destination, featuring tar pits that have bubbled for tens of thousands of years. In the afternoon, dive into the city’s more recent history at El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a vibrant quarter brimming with Mexican heritage, markets and the Avila Adobe – the city’s oldest-standing residence, dating from 1818. End the day with dinner in the Arts District at Perch, pairing rooftop views with French-inspired cuisine.
Alternatively, trade the city sights for a magical adventure at Disneyland or Universal Studios. The choice is yours.
Plan your trip
It’s a two-hour drive to Joshua Tree National Park, a surreal landscape dotted with spiky Joshua trees. Cruise along Park Boulevard to the Hidden Valley trailhead, which accesses an easy one-mile loop through a sci-fi-like landscape – perfect for getting up close and personal with the park’s quirky beauty. For a challenge, Ryan Mountain offers a three-mile trek with 360-degree views and chances to spot bighorn sheep. Not a camper? Stay at the Joshua Tree Inn in the town of Joshua Tree or drive 30 minutes to Palm Springs, California’s “hottest desert town”, home to the posh Parker Palm Springs – a Hollywood Regency-style hotel on Western-movie-star Gene Autry’s former estate.
It’s a substantial drive today – about six hours – to reach the spectacular Yosemite National Park. Put on Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours and enjoy the scenery as you head north on State Routes 58, 99, and 41 along the Sierra Nevada mountains’ eastern edge. Once you enter the park, stop for an enchanting stroll at Mariposa Grove through giant sequoias, then drive about 45 minutes further north on the park road to Yosemite Valley.
Here, check into The Ahwahnee hotel, celebrated as a masterpiece of “parkitecture” with its grand vernacular design blending into the surrounding natural beauty of granite cliffs and towering pines.
Rise early and head to the Tunnel View Overlook to witness the sunrise over El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Fall – a scene immortalised by legendary photographer Ansel Adams. Once the sun is up, lace up your hiking boots for two can’t-miss valley hikes. Start with Bridalveil Fall, a quick 0.5-mile round-trip to the base of the majestic waterfall. Next, take the 1.1-mile round-trip to Lower Yosemite Fall, with stunning views of both the Upper and Lower Falls. A final easy hike is the serene Mirror Lake/Meadow trail. If you hike around the lake – an hour-long loop – you’ll enjoy stunning reflections of the granite cliffs towering above. Yes, it’s a lot of hiking, but each trail is short, making it impossible to choose just one.
It’s a three-hour drive north to Sutter’s Creek, where a gold nugget, discovered in 1848, sparked the California Gold Rush. But take your time cruising along SR 49, a historic byway winding through the rolling Sierra Nevada foothills. The route features gold-rush-era towns, including Columbia, where you can still pan for gold; Angels Camp, made famous by Mark Twain’s whimsical tale, The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County; and Mokelumne Hill, once a wild and wealthy mining hub with stories to match.
Visit the Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park in Coloma to see a working reproduction of the original sawmill near James Marshall’s famous gold-discovery site. Just an hour north, in Nevada City, the newly renovated National Exchange Hotel blends vintage gold-country charm with modern comfort.
Get an early start for the scenic two-and-a-half-hour drive via SR 49, I-80, and SR 29 to Napa and the heart of wine country. Why so early? To join a glide-bike tour with Glidesdale Adventures, where you’ll navigate Napa’s rolling vineyards, delve into the art of wine-making and discover sustainable farming practices – with tastings, of course.
Round out the day with a leisurely stroll through Downtown Napa, filled with boutiques and wine-tasting rooms (55 in a 1.5-square-mile radius, to be exact). A good option for dinner is The Grove at Copia, the Culinary Institute of America’s celebrated Downtown outpost, where rising culinary stars create dishes that turn dinner into an art form. Check into the Inn on Randolph, a restored 19th-century estate set on an acre of gorgeous gardens.
Ease into the morning with breakfast at the inn, then step aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train for a three-hour gourmet lunch experience as you rumble through wine country. Next, pick three or four wineries to visit: Caymus Vineyards, Nickel & Nickel, and Hess Persson Estates are good places to start.
You can return to Napa for a second night, or experience another town. St. Helena, about 18 miles north on SR 29, is charming, offering boutiques, art galleries and plenty of tasting rooms to enjoy. Here, the Napa Farmhouse Inn is a country-chic retreat tucked amid serene gardens. There’s also a Wellness Barn for rejuvenating facials and bathing rituals, a nightly wine hour and an acclaimed restaurant.
Today may be your last day, but you’re ending on a high note. Bid farewell to Napa and drive about 90 minutes south to Muir Woods, a short detour off US 101. Here, spend an hour or so wandering the dark, mossy valley floor, where ancient redwoods – some as wide as a car – soar skyward, their canopies filtering soft light. Rangers are on-hand to share captivating tales of these centuries-old giants.
Continuing south, you’ll go through the Waldo Tunnel and, upon exiting, be greeted by an unforgettable sight: the Golden Gate Bridge. With that breathtaking panorama as your grand finale, cross the bridge and head south to the airport to catch your flight.
The shoulder seasons – May and September/October – are best for fewer crowds and beautiful weather. Winter can be cool and wet, and you may run into snow in Yosemite. While summer is beautiful and warm, you’ll find crowds everywhere you go.
Trailfinders offers a 14-night Classic California Coast fly-drive holiday tracing the legendary Highway 1 from San Francisco to San Diego. Highlights include the dramatic cliffs of Big Sur, beach time in laid-back Santa Monica, and wildlife spotting in Monterey. From £1,979 per person, including car rental, accommodation, and three breakfasts. Excluding flights.
For a more indulgent escape, Scott Dunn curates the 14-night The Perfect Family Road Trip: California’s Cities, Parks, & Coasts, a bespoke, high-end journey down the Pacific Coast. You’ll explore San Francisco, the natural grandeur of Yosemite, Big Sur’s rugged coast, chic Santa Barbara, and star-studded Los Angeles. The package includes stays in some of California’s most luxurious hotels, though you work with the travel specialist to design your own personalised trip. From £7,100 per person. Excluding flights.
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