The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Italy: Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio.
Armed with decades of experience in Italy (she lives on Lake Como) and the vast list of contacts in her little black book, Andrea can open the doors that are closed to most people (not, alas, George Clooney’s) and satisfy almost any request. She interviews travelers in depth to gain a thorough understanding of their travel fantasies, preferences, and pet peeves, and uses that knowledge to craft an itinerary that pairs you with the perfect hotels (often off-the-radar boutique options), activities, guides, and even drivers. A bilingual former guide herself, Andrea knows every time-saving trick for seeing the most famous monuments while also squeezing in the hidden gems. She and her team have the clout to pull strings and ask for favors at Italy’s best hotels, and they have a track record of coming to the rescue 24/7 should the need arise.
Where to Stay and Eat
Villa Balbiano is a historical palazzo that once belonged to Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio. Photo: IC Bellagio
Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
Passalacqua is an enchanting 18th-century villa on the shores of Lake Como with a rare blend of history, elegance, and intimacy. Once home to aristocrats and artists, the hotel has been restored into a sanctuary of Italian grandeur with a modern touch. The gardens cascade down to the lake and the suites are styled with individual character, giving Passalacqua’s guests a true sense of la dolce vita.
Perched on the shores of Lake Maggiore, Boutique Hotel Stresa has breathtaking views of the Borromean Islands and beautifully designed rooms. Guests can stroll along the lakefront promenade, explore lush gardens and historic villas, or simply relax with a glass of wine while watching the sunset over the Alps.
Overlooking lovely Lake Garda sits Lefay Resort & Spa, a luxury eco-resort focused on wellness. The spa has six saunas, five relaxation areas, and a wonderful infinity pool that merges with the horizon. The large park includes a running circuit, fitness trail, and therapeutic energy garden. Andrea’s travelers get a free upgrade, early check-in, and late check-out when available.
Lefay Resort & Spa is an eco-resort overlooking Lake Garda. Photo: IC Bellagio
Restaurants the locals love
Nestled in the hamlet of San Giovanni in Bellagio, Ittiturismo Mella offers authentic Italian hospitality and the flavors of Lake Como: freshly caught fish prepared with traditional recipes, set against the charm of San Giovanni’s cobbled streets.
Ristorante Belvedere on Isola dei Pescatori, accessible by private boat from Stresa, has a terrace and garden with breathtaking views of the lake and surrounding Alps. Traditional fish dishes are prepared with fresh, local ingredients, reflecting the culinary heritage of the region, with a vibe perfect for a special occasion or tranquil escape.
Osteria Antico Brolo, in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, offers refined yet welcoming dining in a beautifully restored 18th-century building near the Vittoriale estate. The rich flavors of Lombardy are reflected in dishes like house-made maccheroncini with Bagòss cheese and olives, and a six-course tasting menu that surprises and delights. Guests can sit in a stone courtyard or, with advance reservation, a private table on a small balcony.
Meal worth the splurge
At Ristorante La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi, in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, guests dine on a candlelit terrace overlooking the lake, surrounded by the hotel’s historic Belle Époque architecture and lush gardens. Set against stunning lake views, La Terrazza is known for its fusion of art and cuisine with dishes like Riso, oro e zafferano (saffron risotto with 23-karat gold leaf), and Dripping di pesce, a seafood dish inspired by Jackson Pollock’s art.
La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi has a Jackson Pollack-inspired seafood dish. Photo: IC Bellagio
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
The best way to enjoy the lakes is from the water itself, whether aboard a private charter, the public boats, a self-drive vessel (you can rent one under 40 horsepower without a license), or even a kayak. Being out there will give you the best idea of what the lakes are all about and how people here live—not to mention give you views of some beautiful properties that aren’t visible from the roads.
Set aside time for some of Lake Como’s most iconic villas, including the museum and botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta and the cinematic terraces of Villa Balbianello (seen in Star Wars: Episode II—Attack of the Clones and Casino Royale). Andrea can arrange for you to visit them privately after hours, allowing you to savor their elegance and charm in complete serenity.
Villa Balbianello sits on a small wooded peninsula on the shore of Lake Como. Photo: IC Bellagio
Visit Limonaia La Malora on Lake Garda for an authentic glimpse into the centuries-old tradition of lemon cultivation. This 16th-century lemon garden is one of the few still in operation, thanks to the dedication of the Gandossi family, who have meticulously restored the structure using traditional methods. Visitors can explore the terraced groves, learn about the unique Madernina lemon variety, and see the innovative irrigation systems that have sustained this heritage. The tour culminates with tastings of homemade limoncello, jams, and syrups.
Bike to the stunning Lake Mergozzo, an easy ten miles along the western shore of Lake Maggiore, winding through the Toce River valley at the foot of the Alps. Take a break in the charming village of Mergozzo for a drink or a creamy gelato. Feeling adventurous? Slip into your bathing suit and dive into one of Italy’s five cleanest lakes, letting the crystal-clear waters set a new bar for swimming in Europe.
Don’t bother
Verona is a beautiful city, and many visitors think they can easily do it as a day trip from Lake Como, Orta, or Maggiore. While it’s certainly doable, the travel time is long, and there’s a real risk of spending more time in the car than discovering the city itself. Instead, take a day trip to Bergamo’s Città Alta, which is much closer and makes for a far more relaxed and rewarding experience. Here, you can wander cobbled streets, admire centuries-old architecture, and relax in cozy cafés with panoramic views. Food lovers will delight in traditional Lombard dishes and local wines.
Hidden gem
Discover the hidden valleys of Lake Como with a local family, creators of an award-winning gin crafted with 12 hand-picked botanicals harvested from meadows surrounding the lake. Join the family and their expert botanist for a day of foraging and hands-on learning. Wander through untouched landscapes to the village of Erbonne, perched between the Swiss and Italian mountains—home to only seven residents yet brimming with fascinating stories. Your adventure concludes with a delectable local lunch, savored amidst the serene beauty of these rarely explored valleys.
Cheap thrills
If you’re staying in Lake Maggiore, jump over the Swiss border to stroll along charming promenades in Ascona and Locarno. These picturesque towns, which are divided by the sparkling Maggia River, enjoy a flower-friendly microclimate thanks to the shelter of the Alps. Take your time to soak in Locarno’s vibrant, cosmopolitan flair and the tranquil, car-free streets of Ascona.
Embark on a peaceful kayak tour along the fortified walls of Peschiera on Lake Garda. This enjoyable paddle allows you to explore the town’s ancient, UNESCO-listed fortifications from the water.
Lake Garda is Italy’s largest lake, with an Alps-meets-Mediterranean vibe. Photo: IC Bellagio
Bragging rights
Glimpse behind the doors of one of Italy’s oldest premier bespoke fashion ateliers. Meet the owners of Sartoria Orefice, which has been tailoring men’s suits in Cernobbio, on Lake Como, since 1856. Enjoy a tour of this celebrated workshop and the archives built over five generations. Discover the process of tailoring a jacket or suit from the initial meeting, watch the ancient machinery still in use today, and learn the secrets of an artisan tailor.
Isola Madre is the largest island of the Isole Borromee archipelago. Photo: IC Bellagio
Make an after-hours visit to the enchanting Isola Madre, the largest of the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore. As the gates close to the public, your private guide will lead you through the island’s stunning botanical garden and the elegantly preserved period rooms of the Borromeo Palace. The visit culminates with an aperitif and gourmet snacks served in the charming outdoor setting of the little Church of San Vittore.
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April is a great time to enjoy the beautiful gardens and mild temperatures. September and October offer the advantage of very comfortable temperatures, incredible sunsets, and a leisurely pace with more opportunities to sit and chat with the locals.
Mid-January through mid-March is the time when much of the maintenance at hotels takes place, and the majority of stores, restaurants, and bars are closed. Public boats and transportation in some areas will also be limited.
If you are not a lover of the hustle and bustle, avoid summer public holidays and Sundays from mid-May through August, when the area is busy with day-trippers and Milanese visiting their second homes.
Thinking you can easily drive around the region yourself. The roads are very narrow and curvy, and parking is limited. If you do rent a car, opt for a smaller vehicle. It can also help to arrange a private transfer to your hotel on arrival and have your rental car delivered there later, once you have a lay of the land.
You are free to take a plunge in any lake; many have dedicated swimming areas. If you’re going to be out in the open, bring a buoy so that boats will spot you—and check public boat timings and routes before setting out.
Some bars will charge you double (or more) the regular price to enjoy drinks and snacks while seated outside, or add a supplement because they have live music playing. Be sure to ask, unless you don’t mind paying extra.
For Lakes Mergozzo, Orta, and Maggiore, fly into Milan Malpensa (MXP).
For Lake Como, use Milan Malpensa (MXP), Milan Linate (LIN), or Milan Bergamo (BGY).
For Lake Garda, use Milan Linate (LIN), Milan Bergamo (BGY), Verona Villafranca (VRN), or Venice (VCE).
When traveling to Lugano, Orta, Maggiore, or Como, it is not necessary to spend the night in Milan: The transfer times between the lakes and airports are usually shorter than between the lakes and Milan.
Binoculars to take in the beauty all around you.
A swimsuit so you can fully enjoy the lakes (and a swimming cap, which is required in public pools).
Comfortable shoes; heels are a nightmare given all the cobblestones and steps.
You’re required to carry a photo ID at all times in Italy. Bring your driver’s license or some other form of photo ID so you don’t have to carry your passport with you all day every day.
The sun setting on the ancient basilica on tiny Isola di San Giulio, on Lake Orta, as you approach or leave by boat.
Driving in the early morning between Bergamo and Lake Garda, through the Franciacorta wine region, as the sun rises.
If there’s a heavy evening storm, don’t despair: Your reward will be clear skies and incredible views for miles and miles the next morning.
A bottle of local olive oil from Azienda Agricola Agnelli Sancassani on Lake Como. Local Rivo gin from the hillsides above Lake Como. A bottle of Franciacorta sparkling wine from the region between Bergamo and Lake Garda. Hand-carved wooden objects and beautiful ceramics are great souvenirs from Lakes Orta and Maggiore.
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I’m not a travel agent—I’m a journalist who has spent the past 30 years reporting on how to travel smarter. To maximize your experience, click to Ask Wendy for a personalized recommendation for trip ideas and custom-trip designers, tailored to your location and preferences.
