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Plan ahead and make smart choices in this inconvenient port surrounded by historical cities and the lodestar of treasure-packed Rome.
All manner of ships from big-budget vessels to luxury lines visit Civitavecchia, Italy’s busiest cruise port, which is used both as a turnaround port and frequently visited by cruise ships on western Mediterranean or more localised France and Italy itineraries.
Civitavecchia is a busy working harbour, but Rome is far out of sight, so don’t have high expectations of the sail-in. That said, the waterfront does have some impressive fortifications from its time as a papal naval base that add a certain historical grandeur to an otherwise ramshackle, working-class city mostly rebuilt since World War II bombing. The sheer number of large cruise ships manoeuvring slowly into tight docking spots is impressive.
Five almost adjacent cruise terminals include Amerigo Vespucci Terminal, the largest in Europe, with more than 60 check-in desks for efficient processing of passengers – plus an exhibition area showcasing Etruscan and Roman artefacts. Passengers are taken by free shuttles through the busy port to various ships’ docking points. Civitavecchia is a good hour’s drive or train ride from Rome, so if ever you’re going to book shore excursions, do it here.
If you’re disembarking from a luxury ship, keep up the style and check into the Hotel Hassler Roma, a Leading Hotels of the World property that could hardly be better located at the top of the Spanish Steps. The sedate, family-owned historic property has a chic spa, Michelin-starred contemporary Italian restaurant, and fabulous views over Rome.
Don’t even think about doing it all because Rome is crammed with sights, many of which require advanced planning or long queues. Top museums include Galleria Borghese and the Quirinale, the former papal stables with changing exhibitions of remarkable quality, often on loan from international art museums. Via Giulia is one of Rome’s most beautiful residential streets, and glorious piazzas include Campidoglio, Farnese and Navona. The Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill are the key ancient ruins.
The Vatican’s architecture and treasures could take you most of the day. The Vatican Museums house the world’s richest art collection and end with the glory of the frescoed Sistine Chapel. St Peter’s Basilica is a baroque masterpiece packed with pope’s tombs and more art, including Michelangelo’s great masterpiece, Pieta.
You’ll get all the exercise you need in Rome if you take in the sights on foot, well worth doing considering the wealth of architecture along almost every city-centre street. Hoof up Pincio or Gianicolo hills for nice gardens and great views. Cycling is no fun unless you follow the ancient Via Appia beyond the city past splendid ancient Roman remains, though you’ll be riding over cobblestones in places.
Fashion, porcelain, leather, lace, elegant stationary, antique prints and gourmet foods are worthy upmarket buys in Rome. The Spanish Steps area, such as along Via Borgognona and Via Condotti, is the place to head for a Gucci bag or Valentino dress – or just to admire Italian style. Via del Corso near the Trevi Fountain is younger, trendier and reasonably priced. Via Cola di Rienzo near the Vatican is good for mid-range clothes and shoes.
Cruise companies might offer up to 40 excursion choices. Most focus on Rome and the Vatican, but alternatives include Umbrian hilltop town Orvieto (often combined with pinnacle-perched medieval village Civita di Bagnoregio), Bracciano Lake and its castle, and Tuscan cellar doors. All involve long days. Closer at hand are the remains of Ostia, ancient Rome’s port.
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