Happy Summer Solstice! We’re in East Glacier after getting off trail yesterday to wait out a snowstorm that’s blowing into Glacier today. The forecast calls for up to 18 inches of snow (plus rain before and after) at high elevations, and it is looking unsafe to be in the backcountry in those conditions because of potential landslides, downed trees, as well as hazardous snow travel on high elevation passes. There are around 50 thru hikers in town today also waiting out the storm! We’re so appreciative of the rangers and folks in town for helping us all stay safe.
It was a bummer to have to get off trail so soon, especially after we spent such a significant amount of time and energy getting our Glacier permits in the first place (this is the only part of the CDT that requires such advanced planning). On Thursday we arrived at the Many Glacier campsite, where we were able to access WiFi to look at weather forecasts and talk with many experienced thru hikers about their plans for the storm. What we all seemed to decide on was that it made more sense to bail out rather than risk extreme conditions, especially with road closures likely that would make it hard to bail later or get help if needed. It’s really important as hikers to make risk management decisions not based on just our own safety, but also the safety of others, such as first responders who may need to respond in the event of a backcountry emergency. We were able to hitch a ride with a Many Glacier hotel employee who generously got us back to East Glacier!
On a different note, here are some updates from our first three days on the CDT!
Our first day, June 17, was one of the most beautiful, enjoyable, and relaxed days either Bella or I has ever had on a backpacking trip. We are so grateful for Bella’s parents, who transported us and some other hikers to the terminus! We began our journey at the Chief Mountain northern terminus of the CDT with some fellow thru hikers who quickly adopted us into their “sprout” tramily (5’11”, Disco, Radio, and Fruitfly). Luckily, we were camped at the same site as the rest of the sprouts for the first night, so we got to hike with them throughout the day. We had bluebird skies all day and even stopped to jump in the Belly River on the way. With a chill 10 mile day, we had lots of time to take breaks and eat, chat, and enjoy the surroundings. We even got to take a short detour to a gorgeous waterfall.
It was comforting to hike in a bigger group as we met other hikers who had seen bears not too far ahead of us on the trail. Our pig and bear calls kept the grizzlies at bay, allowing us to arrive safely at Elizabeth Lake with the summer sun still high in the sky (the sun doesn’t set here until after 9:30, and it doesn’t get fully dark until around 10:30)! Our dinner time conversation turned at some point to discussion of trail names; we are trying out some (Cookie Monster for me and Beanie Baby for Bella) but still mulling it over.
Our second day began with a steady uphill climb to Red Gap Pass, our first pass of the CDT! The views were spectacular in all directions, and we were pleasantly surprised by the relatively easy terrain and lack of snow on the trail. That might change after tomorrow, though…
We met up with our tramily at the top of the pass, where they were taking a longer break. They had started early in anticipation of a nearly 20-mile day to Many Glacier: this is sadly where our itineraries diverged, but we knew we would meet again soon. We ended up seeing them at several other break spots during the day, including a beautiful, ice cold river that we dipped our feet in. We camped at Poia Lake, which was a gorgeous but freezing body of water. We met some other thru hikers at our campsite, some of whom we had seen earlier on the trail. This night ended up being super windy, and Bella woke up with dust covering half of her face!
Our third day in Glacier National Park was a very chill one. With eight miles of mostly downhill to Many Glacier, we took our time and soaked in the scenery along the way. It felt strange to arrive in Many Glacier and hear the sounds of construction and cars. However, we enjoyed the chance to buy an ice cream sandwich and sit by the lake and swim. We even got to drink water straight from a water fountain instead of filtering it! But we’ve been lucky with excellent water sources so far on trail.
Our first three days in Glacier National Park and on the CDT were absolutely amazing and we can’t wait to get back on trail after this snowstorm passes through!! Stay tuned for more updates from us along the CDT!
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Hi I’m Megan! I’m a recent college grad thru hiking the CDT SOBO with my girlfriend this summer. I’m from Illinois originally, I went to college in Vermont, I studied abroad in South America for a year, and soon I’ll be high up on the Continental Divide. I’m a lover of all things outdoors, including plunging into freezing water, stand up paddle boarding, biking long distances, and of course walking as far as my legs can take me. I can’t wait to share my journey on the CDT!
It gave me great pleasure to read that one of your main considerations in making the decision to stand down was the possibility of needing SAR.
Thank you for your decision NOT to put them and anyone else is a possible dangerous venture. You never know what could happen or what the future might bring. I always prefer to take the safer route when my plans might possibly put others in jeopardy if things go afoul.
Cat
